ESTIMATION OF WATER PARTICLE VELOCITY OF BREAKING WAVE

Breaking Wave Velocity Estimation

estimation of carotid artery pulse wave velocity by doppler ultrasonography

background: pulse wave velocity (pwv) is widely used for estimating the stiffness of an artery. v arious invasive and non-invasive methods have been developed to determine pwv over the years. in the present research , the non-invasive estimation of the pwv of large arteries was used as an index for arterial stiffness. methods: a dynamic model based on the navier-stokes equations coupled to elas...

Measurements of Shallow Water Breaking Wave Rollers

Large scale laboratory experiments concerning breaking wave propagation over a fixed-bed, barred beach were performed. The primary observations of interest were video intensity time series obtained from a set of high-resolution video cameras in order to study the onset of wave breaking in shallow water and wave roller transformation in the surf zone. The approach is new in the sense that the an...

Wave breaking velocity effects in depth-integrated models

A simple model for predicting the velocities under breaking waves in depth-integrated models is developed. A velocity modification due to wave breaking is formulated based on a specific exponential profile, which is then added to the numerically predicted, depth-integrated velocity profile. This modification is superficial in that it does not directly change the hydrodynamic calculations inside...

Evaluation of a deep-water wave breaking criterion

An experimental and numerical study is presented to investigate the breaking criterion of Song and Banner J. Phys. Oceanogr. 32, 2541 2002 who suggested a threshold range of 1.4 0.1 10−3 for a predictive wave breaking parameter, measuring the rate of change in the local energy maximum and the local wave number, to differentiate between wave trains that lead to breaking and those that do not. To...